The Science of Sunscreen

On Sunscreen: What the Science Actually Says, and Why It Matters More Than the Marketing

The numbers are not subtle. Used correctly and consistently, broad-spectrum sunscreen reduces skin cancer risk by roughly 50%. That figure has been sitting in the clinical literature for years, largely ignored in a beauty industry more interested in selling you a glow than protecting the skin underneath it.

So let's talk about it plainly.

A Brief, Strange History

Sunscreen did not arrive fully formed as a sleek zinc-oxide stick. It began, improbably, as a quinine-laced alcohol solution in 1891, essentially a burn treatment in a bottle. By the 1930s, it had evolved into a thick red jelly developed for WWII pilots, designed to shield the skin around their eyes from sustained exposure at altitude. Protective efficacy, not elegance, was the entire point. That original intent of protection as the non-negotiable baseline is worth reclaiming.

The Formulation Question

Not all sunscreens are equal, and the distinctions matter. Mineral formulas use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to physically deflect UV radiation and sit on top of the skin rather than absorbing into it. Chemical filters work by absorbing UV energy and converting it to heat, and some, particularly oxybenzone, have raised questions worth taking seriously. Studies have detected oxybenzone in blood plasma after topical application, and while the long-term implications remain under investigation, the precautionary logic for choosing mineral is sound. Benzene contamination, identified in certain aerosol sunscreens in recent years, adds further reason to read labels carefully.

SPF 30 is the clinically supported minimum, blocking approximately 97% of UVB rays. SPF 50 pushes that slightly further and is worth the upgrade for higher-exposure days. Broad-spectrum coverage addressing both UVA and UVB is not optional. Pairing sunscreen with antioxidants, particularly vitamin C, has also been shown to enhance photoprotection meaningfully; some studies suggest an increase of up to 40% in efficacy.

E+B Has Help for You

This is precisely where Forah distinguishes itself. All three of their sunscreens use non-nano zinc oxide as the active mineral filter, meaning particles large enough that they do not penetrate the skin barrier, and are formulated without chemical UV filters, parabens, silicones, synthetic fragrance, microplastics, or phthalates.

Everyday Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 is the workhorse of the range, designed for both face and body. It pairs zinc oxide and titanium dioxide with a full organic herbal blend of sea buckthorn, jojoba, sweet almond, biodynamic avocado oil, vitamin C, and seaweed extract, delivering hydration, collagen support, and antioxidant defense in a single step.

Unscented Everyday Mineral Sunscreen SPF 25 is built on the same mineral and botanical foundation as the SPF 30, formulated specifically for those with fragrance sensitivities, reactive skin, or conditions like rosacea and eczema where scent can be a trigger. Same integrity, zero compromise.

Mineral Sun Milk SPF 40 is the most refined formula in the lineup and the one designed specifically for the face. Waterless, silicone-free, and fragrance-free, it is built around plant-derived squalane, jojoba esters, and bisabolol, applies invisibly across all skin tones, and has been shown to reduce pollution-induced free radicals by over 85%. For daily wear in a high-UV environment, this is the one.

All three are reef-safe and cruelty-free. The packaging is recyclable aluminum, designed to be rinsed and recycled rather than sent to landfill.

Application: Where Most Routines Fall Apart

The science on under-application is consistent and a little humbling. Most people use roughly half the amount needed to achieve the SPF on the label. The clinical standard is approximately one ounce, or a full shot glass, for the body, and half a teaspoon for the face. Apply fifteen minutes before sun exposure. On the first application of the day, apply twice. Reapply every two hours, or every forty minutes if you are sweating or swimming, as Forah's formulas are water resistant to that threshold. Cloudy days are not an exemption; up to 80% of UV radiation penetrates cloud cover.

Skin Tone and the Fitzpatrick Scale

UV radiation does not discriminate, though its visible effects do. Lighter skin on the Fitzpatrick scale burns faster and carries higher statistical risk of skin cancer with cumulative unprotected exposure, making SPF 40 or higher a daily baseline rather than a beach-day upgrade. For deeper skin tones, melanin offers some natural UV defense, but UVA penetration continues regardless, contributing to hyperpigmentation, collagen degradation, and long-term cellular damage. The Mineral Sun Milk SPF 40 is particularly well-suited here, formulated to apply clear across all skin tones, which has historically been the primary barrier to consistent mineral sunscreen use.

A Word on Altitude

Colorado's UV environment is not incidental. At a mile above sea level, UV intensity is approximately 50% stronger than at sea level, a function of thinner atmosphere and, in winter, highly reflective snow cover. Between 10am and 4pm at peak season, SPF 40 or above is the appropriate choice, with diligent reapplication. The Mineral Sun Milk's SPF 40 handles that threshold comfortably as a daily face product, and for full-body days the SPF 30 Everyday formula covers ground efficiently. In the lower-UV winter months, SPF 30 is sufficient, but skipping entirely, even in January, is a miscalculation.

The Forah at Elizabeth & Bern

For those building a more considered sun care routine, Forah's full range extends beyond SPF. The Dayglow Oil Serum, formulated with raspberry seed oil, prickly pear, tamanu, and rosehip, works as a complement to daily sun protection by targeting the oxidative damage and hyperpigmentation that accumulates with UV exposure over time. The Deeps Cleansing Oil rounds out the routine on the other end, removing sunscreen and impurities at the end of the day without stripping the skin's natural barrier.

Sunscreen is not a complicated category. It has simply been made to seem more optional than it is, and the formulation standards more confusing than they need to be. Forah resolves both.

Shop the full Forah Collection at Elizabeth & Bern, mineral sun care formulated without compromise.